I ventured out of the confines of my hotel last night and its delicious but predictable five-star dinners to sample a taste of traditional Korean cuisine at its best in a restaurant called Pulhyanggi. Known as one of the finest restaurants in Seoul, Pulhyanggi caters to what they call discriminating "persons of an artistic turn of mind." In my case, however, something else was turning as plate after plate of pickled creatures was placed in front of me. Dancing Octopus, Fish-a-la-Rigor-Mortis and Fermented Devil Root were just a few of the specialties I endured ... and among the only items I was able to identify during the course of the meal. "Ahh, you must have a small stomach," said one of my local colleagues as he passed what looked like an eyeball in my direction. "Yes," I replied, "It runs in the family ...!"